Via Künig: from Las Herrerías to Santiago in 11 stages

The first day of our adventure on the Via Künig is to reach the tiny village of Las Herrerías de Valcarce, situated at the foot of the mountains of Os Ancares, the mountain range that separates Galicia from Bierzo. Las Herreríaswhere our route begins, was an essential point for pilgrims on the French Way, as it was common for them to shoe their horses here and stop for the night before starting the tough climb up the passes of O Cebreiro. 

It is worth getting to this magical place as soon as possible. Your bucolic scenery, its tranquillity and the warmth of its people are a perfect portico for the start of our tour the following day. Moreover, it is still possible to visit one of the functions that gave the town its name, restored so as not to let it fall into the oblivion of modernity. There was also a Hospital de los InglesesThe name of the pilgrimage route is mentioned as early as 1178, although only the toponym remains. The name can be confusing, because most English pilgrims and, in general, pilgrims from northern Europe, used to arrive by ship to Galician ports, continuing from there on foot to Compostela (the English Way from Ferrol This explains its name), but some authors explain it in relation to the pilgrimage of the English King Henry II, its possible founder.

Standard accommodation: Lixa House or similar

Distance: 9 km
Difficulty: ●●●●○
Accommodation: Pedrafita do Cebreiro

Our route along the Vía Künig begins, leaving Las Herrerías behind and heading towards Pedrafita do Cebreiro. Pedrafita is undoubtedly less known to lovers of the Camino de Santiago than O Cebreiro, the tiny village up the mountain that marks the entrance to Galicia, but we will head there because if there is one feature that sets the Via Künig apart, it is its search for the most beautiful and most beautiful landscapes. easier steps and its permanent attempt to avoid the mountains. To enter Galicia from Bierzo there is no choice but to cross the Ancares mountain range, but the ascent from Las Herrerías to O Cebreiro can be a real killer compared with the kinder ascent to Pedrafita. Even so, the stretch is quite demanding, so we will take the shortest route of all those planned for this route to Santiago: only 9 km. 

There are two options for travelling the stage: along the so-called "old road", which is in fact a disused section of the primitive N-VI road, or along the "old road", which is in fact a disused section of the primitive N-VI road. Camino de Santo Tirsodescribed by Künig. This second option, which we recommend here, is not suitable for cycling. We leave the main route to the left, as Künig's guidebook says, following the signs indicating his Camino. Santo Tirso is only 1.6 km away, and from there the path continues surrounded by native forest and flanked by several watercourses that will have to be crossed by pontoonsThe log bridges look as if they have been there since the origin of the very earth that surrounds us. 

We then have to cross the N-VI, whose successive routes have partly destroyed the beauty of this section and of the Vía Künig itself. Passing under the A-6 motorway, we reach O Castro, the last town in El Bierzo. From here, the rest of the stage follows the old route of the N-VI, which is no longer used today. The end of the journey is in Pedrafita do Cebreiro, but even so, given that the distance will have been short, we recommend that you go to O Cebreiro3.4 km up the mountain, to visit its traditional mountain architecture of pallozas and get to know its church, which, according to legend, holds the Holy Grail that has historically been the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Galicia.

Standard accommodation: Hotel Casa Pazos or similar

Distance: 15.5 km
Difficulty: ●○○○○
Accommodation: As Nogais

We resume our Camino de Santiago along the Via Künig on a stretch that is now completely separate from the French Way. We will do it in a very comfortable and pleasant way, because the whole route, which follows the old Camino Real, is flat or gently descending (to compensate for the climb of the last stage), and because the landscape of rounded green hills and native woodland is impressive. We will have to cross a couple of Canadian passes used to control livestock, which will lead us to some small villages such as Campa do Colmo or Casas da Serra, with no services, but where it may be possible to chat with some of the locals. 

After 8 km of the stage we reach O Castelo, a place name that refers to an ancient Celtic castro, which has not been excavated, on the top of which is the chapel of Santa Olaia. A couple of kilometres more will take us to Doncos. In the past, it was the most important town between Villafranca del Bierzo and Lugo, and still conserves its original name. good granaries which bear witness to the splendour of those days and, in the vicinity, the tower of an old castle.

From Doncos, the Way crosses an autochthonous forest with an abundance of chestnut trees, with a steeper gradient (up to -24% at some points). This stretch, known as coast of EsparizIt was soon abandoned and an alternative, smoother route was built, which survived to become the N-VI, allowing us to enjoy the Camino Real as it was laid out in the 18th century. At the end of the descent we will find the river Valdeparada and the first houses of As Nogais, a town with multiple services where our stage ends. 

Standard accommodation: Hostel O Muíño or similar

Distance: 11.6 km
Difficulty level: ●●●○○○○○
Accommodation: Becerreá

The third stage of our Via Künig departs from As Nogais, taking the path parallel to the N-VI as far as A Ferraría and then continuing towards Agüeira and Horta. Despite walking alongside the national road, we will hardly notice any traffic, as it is only used by the few inhabitants of the area (most of the traffic goes along the A-6 motorway). In Agüeira we will find a sign indicating the access to the magical Bosque dos Grobos. It is worth the detour, only 150m, to see the imposing limestone outcrops modelled by the humidity. This small labyrinth of karst rocks is one of those magical places that survive far from the hustle and bustle of the Camino Francés. 

On our way back, we will pass through Horta, where we will find the Mesón VelloNow restored, it is a magnificent example of the inns that marked the roads and paths of the 19th century. Leaving Horta behind, we will also leave the old N-VI to take it again further on towards the imposing bridge of Cruzul, the prelude to the end of the stage in the town of Becerreá. 

Standard accommodation: Poy House or similar

Distance: 26.5 km
Difficulty: ●●●●○
Accommodation: Baralla

We resume our Camino de Santiago along the Vía Künig, leaving Becerreá behind us in the direction of the sanctuary of the Ecce Homo of CadoallaThe origin of the sanctuary dates back to the end of the 12th century, but as a sanctuary it was completely renovated in 1727. Here begins a steep climb from 595 to 800 metres above sea level with slopes of between 7% and 14%. The ascent will leave us in Cereixal, and from there we will have to take the N-VI again, as the original Way has not been preserved, until we reach the highest point in Campo de Arbre, with magnificent views. This stretch, however, has a much more moderate slope, and after it the descent will begin until we reach the end of the stage, crossing some areas of special beauty, such as the stretch called "...".Camiño de Arandedo"The road crosses the native forest and offers a stretch of absolute silence, broken only by the sound of birds and the waters of the river. regato of O Convento a few metres below our height. Oak and chestnut trees, moss covering the centenary walls and ferns, will allow us to discover what Künig himself saw and felt when he crossed these lands at the end of the Middle Ages.

Standard accommodation: Fonda Casa Lejo or similar

Distance: 15.1 km
Difficulty level: ●●●○○○○○
Accommodation: O Corgo

On resuming our route along the Vía Künig, leaving Baralla behind, we will immediately begin to climb towards the villages of Ferreiros, Vilartelín and Vilanova, continuing under the shade of the native trees and pastures. From Vilanova, which preserves a typical Galician manor house of which we can see little more than the outer walls, we will chain several descents towards the end of the stage. The stretch to Santa Cruz, which descends gently, is very pleasant due to its tranquillity, its centuries-old moss-covered walls and its nature. The distance, which in this stage is greater than in the previous ones, represents the main difficulty of a stage that is generally very easy, which follows the Royal Road of Charles III and the N-VI, crossing the A-6 motorway at several points via flyovers or subways.

Particularly beautiful is the environment of the river Tordeawhich we will cross by a pontillion The traditional farmhouse is within sight of a small restored mill and a rest area, perfect for a short break. Our accommodation is just a short distance away. Unlike the previous stages, the end of the day is not in a town, as O Corgo, despite being the municipal capital, lacks a compact nucleus as such. 

Standard accommodation: Hotel Prados or similar with transfer

Distance: 26.6 km
Difficulty: ●●●●○○
Accommodation: Lugo

On this seventh day we face the longest stage so far of the Via Künig, which we start in Las Herrerías de Valcarce. Leaving our accommodation behind us, the Way takes us to Castrillón, whose toponym points to the well-preserved castro The powerful walls that used to protect it and, in the middle of it, the chapel of San Bernabé and its outdoor altar table that takes advantage of an ancient Roman milestone. From here we will cross O Corgo. A short distance away from the town hall we find the pazo de ValcarceThis is a magnificent example of Galician palatial architecture from the 17th century. Without too much delay, we will continue towards Lamas and pass over the 17th century Galiñeiros bridge. From here we will begin to see a series of milestones that refer to the Roman road XIX. 

Soon we will enter the municipality of Lugo, finding its first village, Coeo, with an interesting parish church (two naves joined transversally) and a beautiful peto de ánimas. From here we will continue along a muleteers' road marked with Roman milestones and in a short time we will begin to notice the proximity of Lugo, which in Roman times was the capital of the Conventus Lucensis and one of the most important cities in the Iberian Peninsula. We will approach its urban area bordering the Rato river, which gives way to the fully urban streets of the Montirón neighbourhood. We will have to cross them to get to the historical centre embraced by the Roman wallswhich are World Heritage Sites. 

Lugo is, without a doubt, the main attraction of this Way because of its cultural and historical heritage, its Roman past, the endless catalogue of places of interest and the fact that here, with our Via Künig, the so-called "Via Künig" converges. Camino Primitivofrom Asturias. 

Standard accommodation: Hostal Alba Lugo or similar

Distance: 29.1 km
Difficulty level: ●●●○○○○○
Accommodation: A Ponte Ferreira

To continue our Way of St. James to the city of the apostle, we will now dive into the Primitive Way, which was already one of the main pilgrimage routes to Compostela when Hermann Künig walked it. We, who come from the deserted roads of this alternative route, will immediately notice an increase in the number of walkers. Nothing to do with other routes such as the French Way (which we will face in the next few days) or the Portuguese Way, but many more than the half a dozen that we will have come across in the previous stages. It will be nice, in any case, to share moments with other walkers, and to explain, perhaps, the marvel that is the Via Künig.

The stage will take us from the great Roman city to the tiny village of A Ponte Ferreira, the perfect place to regain strength after a long stage without too many intermediate services. We will leave Lugo via the Porta de Santiago, which thousands of pilgrims have crossed over the centuries, to meet the river Miño and continue along a route whose signposting, now very abundant, is also very different. Secondary roads and paths in the middle of the characteristic rural landscape of inland Galicia will be the dominant tone until we reach the bucolic place of Ponte Ferreira. 

Standard accommodation: O Lar do Alecrín or similar

Distance: 21.3 km
Difficulty level: ●●●○○○○○
Accommodation: Melide

This second stage along the Primitive Way will take us to Melide, the point where the Vía Künig converted into the Primitive Way finally joins the French Way - the great pilgrimage route - to continue on to Compostela. The stage continues to offer some places of particular rural beauty in line with previous stages, dotted in an environment of great agricultural value which, in Galicia, continues to be an important economic sector. 

At the end of the stage we will find ourselves in Melide, A small village in the interior of Galicia that hides its oldest cruceiro and an appetising honey and cheese museum. No wonder: we are in the Terra de Melide, a region with a great cheese-making tradition under the protection of the Arzúa-Ulloa Designation of Origin. If you are interested in gastronomy (who is not?), in Melide you should try the octopus. á feira - the most popular preparation of this star dish in Galicia - and melindres: the typical dessert of this locality.

Standard accommodation: La Esquina Guesthouse or similar

Distance: 15.2 km
Difficulty level: ●●●○○○○○
Accommodation: Arzúa

On this tenth day of adventure, the Künig Way, which had moved away from the French Way and had become the Primitive Way in the previous two stages, returns to its origins and merges with the most important route of the Pilgrims' Routes to Santiago de Compostela. Today we will cover a shorter distance than in the previous stages: less than 15 km to adapt our pace to that of the French Way, which traditionally stops in Arzúa. This stage may be hard for walkers coming from Palas de Rei, but those coming from Lugo on the Camino de Santiago are already used to the continuous changes in level. In any case, the journey promises paths among centenary trees and beautiful spots, such as Ribadiso: the anteroom of Arzúa.

Standard accommodation: Casa Elena Guesthouse or similar

Distance: 21 km
Difficulty level: ●●●○○○○○
Accommodation: O Pedrouzo

The penultimate stage before reaching Santiago de Compostela begins leaving Arzúa behind. Although we are approaching the capital of Galicia and the flow of walkers and road traffic intensifies at some points where we will have to walk parallel to the N-547, this day will continue to be marked by the presence of the peaceful landscapes between forests and meadows that have characterised our previous stages on the Via Künig. However, these natural spaces will be increasingly interrupted by inhabited areas. At the end of the stage, we will find ourselves in O Pedrouzo, a modern town that has developed in the heat of the pilgrims' footsteps and which offers a special hospitality to walkers.

Standard accommodation: Pension Lo or similar

Distance: 19.1 km
Difficulty level: ●●●○○○○○
Accommodation: Santiago de Compostela

At last! The last stage of our Camino de Santiago along the Via Künig. Less than 15 km to reach the famous Monte do Gozo, whose name invokes the joy of those who can finally contemplate, just over 5 km away, the iconic towers of the Cathedral of Santiago. From there, the entire route descends until you reach the old city of Santiago de Compostela and what was once the Porta do Camiño of the disappeared city wall. The only thing left to do is to step on the centenary stones that lead us to the Obradoiro square. It doesn't matter where we are from and how far we have walked, or how many times we have done the Camino: it continues to impress and create a sensation that is difficult to describe. Congratulations. 

Standard accommodation: Deniké Guesthouse or similar

The seventh day is a tribute to your efforts. After a well-deserved rest, you will have the whole day free to explore the Holy City: its Cathedral and the rest of its monuments. If you wish, we can also help you with this. And, if you have time, we have some complementary activities that may be of interest. Ask us about them.